The Greatest Guide To Termite Control Process

The Ultimate Guide To Termite Control Procedure


Mud tubesUnlike ants, termites do not ramble around on the soil surface or out in the open. They'll either tunnel through the soil or into timber (or other stuff ) or else traveling inside pencil-size (or larger)"mud tubes" they assemble from dirt, wood contaminants and other substances. You'll find these tubes on foundation walls, floor joists or other areas of the house.

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Break open the tubes to see if termites are still busy. An empty tube doesn't necessarily mean that termites are gonethey may have just abandoned this specific tunnel. Termites often rebuild damaged tubes, which is another indication of current activity. 'Old' tubes are dry and crumble easily, leaving behind"etching" on the surface that may be observable for years (an indication that a house had termite activity at any time).

Tubes which are found on ceilings or on upper levels of a building may indicate that you have an aboveground ("airborne") infestation, i.e., the termite colony really lives in the building and the termites are traveling from the ground. Mud tubes built through an aboveground colony normally contain materials other than dirt, e.g., wood and sheet rock or anything the termites are feeding on.

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In such situations, a thorough inspection may require elimination of siding or interior wallboards, etc.. More importantly for you, these aboveground infestations cannot be controlled using the customary soil treatment (see below) and therefore are generally excluded from a termite contract warranty. In such situations, finding and correcting the moisture problem is the very first step to eliminating the termites. .

We tend to think of termites as feeding/injuring timber only. Termites actually feed on almost anything that contains cellulose, the main component of wood, including wood paneling, paper products, cardboard boxes, art canvases, the paper covering of sheet rock, carpeting, etc.. While foraging and feeding, they may tunnel through non-cellulosic materials, such as plastic and foamboard.

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In reality, the amount of damage that termites cause depends on many factors. In Get the facts regions with cold winter temperatures, termite activity (and feeding) often declines, but does not necessarily cease. When the termites are well-protected from colder temperatures (e.g., underneath a slab), then action might continue year-round. From a practical standpoint, serious termite damage usually takes approximately 3-8 this website decades. .

There is no accurate method for determining the era of recently found damage. You need some reference point, i.e., some point in time when it was known there was no damage to this particular wood. This is one reason why annual inspections (and keeping your records of those inspections) are important. .

NOTE: All these inspections are not a guarantee that you do not have termites or harm in areas that are not insured or not easily seen, such as inside walls. On the other hand, the inspections can reveal conditions that may suggest that harm does exist and further investigation is needed.

In case you have a termite protection contract, contact right here the pest control company quickly and arrange for them to check out the problem. Should you not have a termite contract, telephone 2-3 (or more) companies and have every one inspect your house and provide you with the specifics of their findings and any recommendations for a course of action to fix any termite conditions they found.

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Termites do not cause significant damage in a brief time period, so spending a few added days or even a few weeks will not make any actual difference in terms how much damage happens. .

Can there be damage that should be repaired or examined by a contractor or engineer before control measures are performed

Only spraying swarmers or the surface of accessible infested wood can kill the termites that you see now, but it does not stop the infestation nor does it shield your house from future attacks by termites. The most common sort of termite treatment involves a"trench and treat" in which a liquid insecticide ("termiticide") is placed on the soil surrounding critical areas of your residence.

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The soil is trenched 6" deep and approximately 4-6" wide. For houses with crawlspaces, the dirt along the interior foundation wall must be treated within 4 feet of identified signs of termite activity. In some circumstances, the soil around supports (such as piers) underneath the house can also be treated.

When implemented correctly, this treatment forms a continuous chemical barrier which should prevent termites from reaching the foundation and piers in your residence. .

Concrete slabs that attach to the house, for instance, a garage floor, or the slab of an earth-filled porch.

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